Touring Dublin - Kilmainham Gaol, Dublin Castle, Guiness Storehouse

 

Jail cells as far as the eye can see (photo by TravellingFool.com)

I woke up too early this morning but between trying to get comfortable on my lumpy mattress and getting in the shower an hour early, I chose getting ready early. Just as the clouds were brightening from the sun which was presumably trying to rise we were making our way by tram to Kilmainham Gaol for the first tour of the day.

The Gaol, or jail, was amazing. The tour guide was so informative giving us the history of the building as well as the people who were forced to reside in it as well as the history of the Republic of Ireland. It's often easy to forget that there are places in the world that struggled for their independence well into the 20th century.

We got to see all the different parts of the jail and when the tour ended I was sad that our hour went by so quickly. I could have easily listened to our guide discuss the intricate tale of jail reform and the Irish civil war. After it was over we headed to a nearby cafe to grab some food. I had a bagel with cream cheese and EJ had an Asian noodle salad that gave him the worst breath I have ever had the displeasure of sharing space with perhaps in my entire life. No longer starving we waited on the corner for the tour bus to come around and give us a ride to our next destination.

Dublin Castle: 2nd largest tourist trap in Dublin (photo by TravellingFool.com)

We tried to figure out where we could go to both kill time before we were planning on going to the Guiness storehouse and someplace that wasn't too far from it. We decided to try out the Dublin Castle, especially since EJ hadn't seen a castle before. We got there and looked around only to say, is this it?! It was maybe the second most disappointing highly regarded tourist destination I've ever encountered (first place still belongs to the Rainbow Bridge in Tokyo but just barely). After seeing the price was 10€ to get in we decided to walk around the place instead.

As we were about to leave and try out one of the many churches instead we saw a sign for the Chester Beatty Library with the "European Museum of the Year" badge. EJ and I knew that could only mean that it was at least half way decent. When we walked in we were greeted by a kind American security guard who described the museum as the best kept secret in Dublin. He wasn't lying either. Inside were so many treasures from original Bibles and Qurans to emperor's robes from feudal Japan. It was just two floors but so fascinating to see all these artifacts from human history.

"Disneyland of Dublin" (photo by TravellingFool.com)

Once we were enriched with knowledge from the museum we started our journey to the Guinness Storehouse. Google maps took us the shortest route which I can only describe as the ghetto. It was run down, poor, and dirtier then the other dirty run down streets of Dublin we had seen. But we made it to the Storehouse which EJ dubbed the "Disneyland of Dublin." Essentially our 18€ admission bought us access to a shop and beer history amusement park. While not disappointing it was a bit too much like a sales pitch then learning how one of the world's most beloved beers is made.

Master pour in action (photo by TravellingFool.com)

 Park admission does give you a free pint. One of the options to consume your pint is to learn how to pour it yourself, during which you get your picture taken and a certificate as a master pourer. Of course that was the one I had to do. It was so much fun pulling my first pint! Plus we got free photos and the beer. While EJ and I were enjoying our pint in the seating area of the Academy, I wondered to him what the teacher does with every pint that they pour as an example. EJ said that he thought they just threw them out which I told him was a terrible waste. The instructor must have overheard us because sure enough as he left for his shift he came up to our table with his freshly poured pint and asked if I wanted it. I've never been one to turn down a drink, free or otherwise, so of course I accepted and enjoyed the pint. The rumors are true by the way, Guinness does taste much better fresh from the distillery slash amusement park.

Forget the "Guinness Experience" this is way better. (photo by TravellingFool.com)

Unfortunately we sat there enjoying our Guinness for so long that all the eateries in the amusement park were closed. We were due at the Open Gate Brewhouse, something which I found out about from a Foursquare review of the Storehouse who said go to the Brewhouse around the corner instead. So we headed off, hungry but full of vitamin rich Guinness to the Brewhouse. When we got there it was like some kind of exclusive club or speakeasy. An old man stood in the frame of the door, effectively cutting off any entry or ability to see inside, and asked if your name was on the list. Thankfully I had the foresight to book a spot and told him my name. With a slight flourish he welcomed us and handed us two bottle caps which could be exchanged inside for a drink.

Lots of stouts to choose from (photo by TravellingFool.com)

Inside was one of the coolest trendy bars I have ever been in. There were just two bartenders and a chalk board of drink names. We ended up exchanging our two drink tokens for two flights, that way we could try all 8 beers available. The bartender was nice enough to give them to us in order of how we should try them for the best experience.

Gotta catch em all (photo by TravellingFool.com)

The beers were all very unique and interesting. There was one that tasted like raw coffee beans in beer, another that tasted like the rat on a Friday night in Binghamton, one that was like water, and another that was like getting punched in the mouth, just to name a few. Most of the beers used the same yeast that is used to make Guinness, yet it created a wide array of flavors. The Brewhouse is the experimentation arm of Guinness and it definitely showed in their offerings.

As we finished our mini beers we discussed what to do next. Originally I wanted to go to Temple Bar since it is the place that everyone kept talking about. But the bars close here early, and we were already on the opposite side of town where our hostel is located. Then I went on to read the reviews which said that it was crowded, expensive, and filled with nothing but tourists. Preferring to finally eat something (we didn't have anything since the jail tour) we opted to head back to the hostel to an Indian take out place.

Post beer curries (photo by TravellingFool.com)

We ordered our food then brought it back to the lounge slash lobby of the hostel. It was delicious. As my grandmother says, hunger is the best sauce. I knew as we were waiting for the food that it would be good since they only use a couple of pans to make all the food - just like my favorite Chinese food place back home.

Now it's back to London for a night and then back to the real world. I'm both excited to sleep in a real bed and dreading the return to work.